By Tiwalade A. Olugbade PhD
The book reflects decades of teaching, research, regulatory service and or professional practice experience of the 31 contributing authors who are national and international experts, thus conferring their authority on the subject.
The book is presented in 26 chapters and in one volume of about 900 pages. The introduction is captivating enough to invite the reader, irrespective of background, vocation or profession. The chapter traces records of the methods used to accomplish beautification of the body from the ancient civilisations up till the early days of the modern industries, a few of which have brands that still exist till today. It also identifies five distinct practitioners associated with cosmetics application or therapy to educate against undue role conflict and charlatanism.
The other chapters of the book can be grouped into five main themes to wit: The skin, hair and nail; Product development, Manufacture and marketing; Choice of materials and their functions; Health and safety information; and Regulations, laws and the Consumer.
The skin, hair and nail
Three liberally illustrated chapters have been rightly devoted to the anatomy and functions of the skin (2) and the hair (5) as well as the nail which are the major targets of application of cosmetics to provide the reader with the understanding that while the expected effects on the skin and hair may be achieved, indeed, the effects may be more than skin deep. Please pardon my indulgence to emphasise that, among others, the book provides illustration of the chemical bonds that explain the shape of the hair, their relative strengths and susceptibility to all weapons of assault that we use in relaxing the hair such as alkali and heat and the predictability of the consequences with collateral damage to the skull, on misapplication.
Development, manufacture and marketing of cosmetic products
Eight chapters have been devoted to topics of interest to the cosmetic industry and potential investors, thus, addressing the technology, formulation, manufacture packaging, GMP, product stability issues, microbiology quality, product evaluation, and marketing strategies. These chapters provide basic technical information of interest to pharmacy students and students of industrial chemistry. It should also encourage entrepreneurship in the young graduates.
Choices of key materials and their functions
Some key components of cosmetics have been selected for detailed discussions in four different chapters which, respectively, address fragrances/essential oils/perfumes (11), antioxidants (12), natural products in general (13) and nutraceuticals (14). Chapter 9 is more elaborate on the chemical nature of cosmetics with a host of chemical materials and their functions described. These chapters should challenge the university academic to explore the abundant natural resources in the environment to develop useful and possibly superior and safer materials for the manufacture of cosmetics.
Health applications and health concerns
One chapter (7) has been devoted to the positive health application of cosmetic products to protect against harmful sun radiation while another chapter (8) addresses cosmetic surgery in response to psychological health demand to correct blemishes, improve appearance and self-esteem even in the absence of anatomical deformities which may otherwise require plastic surgery. On the other hand, four other chapters are devoted to harmful potentials and they specifically address skin bleaching (4), adverse reactions (21), endocrine disrupting chemicals (22) as well as implications in cancer (23). Although some essential technical and scientific items of information such as those on carcinogenesis, mutations and the associated complex signalling pathways are included, these chapters are very educative for the public in general.
Regulations, Laws and the Consumer
Chapter 24 provides detailed comparison of the global regulatory framework for the cosmetic industry. This chapter should be of interest to the manufacturer seeking to extend reach beyond national borders or the importer of finished products. Chapter 25 is as much for the manufacturer as it is for the consumer. It spells out the legal liability of the manufacturer or service provider on one hand and, on the other hand, the rights and the legal framework to seek redress by the consumer or client, in case of any harmful effects from a product or a procedure.
In general, all the laws, regulations and guidelines cited throughout the book are current. The book is well illustrated with appropriate tables, graphs, diagrams, pictures and chemical structures to make it reader friendly.
On the down side, there is some substantial overlap of information in a few chapters. However, appropriate cross referencing between chapters has been provided.
The book is a comprehensive treatise of the subject for the use of students, teachers, researchers, manufacturers and prospective investors. It is particularly simple enough but sufficiently educative to guide the public as the end-users of the products and services to make informed choices, be realistic about expectations, and guide against misapplication.
As the old saying goes, the proof of the pudding is in the eating!
